At Last! The Airavata

The life of a micro brand watchmaker is not always easy. Oh sure, it looks glamorous from the outside: doodle up a new timepiece, send it off to the factory for production, then jet off to party with supermodels while those sweet, sweet Kickstarter dollars come rolling in. But in fact, making your own watch brand requires hard work, late nights, and the bloody-minded determination to endure Sisyphusian frustrations to create something you love. Case in point: the Airavata.

Back in 2013, full-time medical student and part-time watch enthusiast Prateek Shujanya commissioned 500 units of a unique new model from state-owned Indian watchmaker, HMT. It was funded by a group purchase through the Watchuseek Affordable Watch Forum, selling the watches for just $80 each. Nicknamed "The Badass Unicorn," it would have a case identical to that of the HMT Janata, scaled up to 40mm. The movement would be the venerable HMT 0231, properly finished and displayed through a case back window for the first time. The dial and handset were designed by a forum contest with the winners chosen by popular vote. It took some time, but everything was moving apace. Then came the announcement: the Indian government was pulling the plug on the unprofitable HMT. 

Remarkably, Prateek pulled it off. He was able to secure his movement order from HMT and source the other parts from outside vendors. As it was no longer an HMT product, the name came off the dial although it remained on the movement. The production run was cut in half, and the price went up to $143. Former HMT employees performed final assembly. Now, in the fall of 2015, against all odds, the first Airavatas are being shipped, including my green #015. 

Like the Janata, the Airavata has a slim, polished stainless steel case with angular lugs. I was struck by its size. I know 40mm is hardly considered large these days, but I've grown accustomed to that case in 35mm form so it was a bit of a shock to see it all grown up. Factor in the broad dial, domed acrylic crystal, and 48mm length, and you have a watch with considerable presence. In fact, I think it would have worked very well in a 38mm case. It filled my 6.5" wrist nicely and even thick-wristed guys should find it to be a good everyday dress size.  

The back side boasts a display window with an engraved ring. Here you will find the name in both Hindi and English, serial number, movement info, and "f71" (the Watchuseek Affordable Watch Forum designation). Inside is the old reliable HMT hand wound movement, a hearty little beater has powered millions of Indian wristwatches since 1961 and the Airavata is likely the last. It may not be the prettiest movement, but it occupies a unique place in horological history, so it will be nice to flip over the watch and visit it from time to time.

Of course, the real action is on the dial. Three colors were offered: green, blue, and brown. All have a metallic sunburst finish, polished wedge markers, and small Devanagari numbers printed in a radial arrangement. The model name is printed in Hindi at the top, "Parashock, 17 Jewels" below. At the very bottom edge are the words "Made in India 0231."  The polished hands are peaked and tapered with squared tips. It is a perfect layout, properly balanced with plenty of breathing room. My only gripe is the finish on the handset. Generally, it looks fine, but sunlight reveals an uneven, smeary surface. I don't know if it is an imperfection on the surface itself or a watchmaker's fingerprints. Either way, I wish it weren't there. Imperfections were always a part of an HMT's charm, but while that kind of thing is quirky in a $40 watch, it is a little irritating when you have spent $100 more. Schmutz aside, it is a lovely dial.

The watch arrived on a 20mm black leather strap with white stitching. It is comfortable, looks quite nice against the jade dial, and it's quality is leagues beyond those typically supplied by HMT. Still, I could not resist swapping it out. The lugs are drilled for easy spring bar removal. There is sufficient room between the bar and the case to accept a wide range of straps without interference. I chose a tan gator print RIOS, then a sandy leather number from NATO Strap Co. both of which popped against  the green a dark brown cracked leather strap toned it down for a more sober look. 

Overall, I am very happy with my purchase. True, I would love to get in there and polish up those hands, but I probably won't. In every other respect, the watch is a roaring success. The watch has the same 1960's aesthetic that made the original HMTs so endearing, in a modern size that broadens its appeal. Because the is a completely new dial, it accomplishes the transition gracefully. The Airavata neatly captures the HMT essence while maintaining its own integrity. 

Prateek is not done. He is already soliciting ideas for his next project, most likely sourced from China with a Japanese mechanical movement, but still maintaining traditionally Indian elements. I look forward to the result, but for now, I am content to enjoy my Airavata - the last of the HMT line (sort of) and the first Indian micro brand. 

Very few remain, but if you would like to get one, contact Prateek through Watchuseek. You will have to register first.

Pro: Vintage looks with Indian flair.

Con: Poor finish on the handset.

Sum: The end of one era, and the start of a new one. The Time Bum will cherish it. 

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Boralis Batial

Portugal's Borealis Watch Company has assembled an impressive stable of tool and diving watches. I've already told you about the military Scout Sniper and the marvelously eccentric Scorpionfish. Today's subject is the Batial, the company's first bronze case. Borealis provided a black dial with a date function for my evaluation.

I first saw the Batial in pre-production 3D renderings when Borealis announced pre-orders. The round bronze case and straightforward 12/3/6/9 dial certainly looked attractive enough, calling to mind certain Anonimo designs. The 44x51mm dimensions were par for the course for a deep diver, and while the promise of a 13.5mm thickness sounded appealing, I could not get a feel for it in the illustrations. This is where computers can fail us because while the Batial failed to capture my imagination floating out there in soulless 3D cyberspace, I found the genuine article to be delightful.

Drawing inspiration from early diver's watches, the Batial eschews the familiar timing bezel, but it is more than capable of surviving the briny depths. Outward trappings include a solid screw down case back, screw down crown, and helium release valve. Less obvious are the Viton and Tefzel seals, which sound like something out of Game of Thrones, but are actually synthetic polymers. Borealis says these thin, high-tech gaskets allow the watch to achieve 3000m water resistance without increasing its thickness. Flipping the watch over reveals a solid screw-down case back decorated with the Borealis mermaid. Inside is a 24 jewel Miyota 9015, the familiar hacking and hand winding automatic with a smooth 28.8k bph beat rate and over 40-hour power reserve. 

For a large watch, the Batial appears remarkably compact. Its relatively low profile goes a long way in this respect, but it is not the only slimming element. A fixed, unmarked bezel creates a broad expanse of negative space around the dial, making it appear smaller than it would had it been occupied by a dark insert. A steep angle and smooth edge help it blend into the body of the case. Even the lines of the raised case sides, which increase the overall diameter, serve to break up what would otherwise be a slab like surface, thus reducing the appearance of height. The only thing I might have wanted would be a beveled bottom edge to minimize the perceived thickness just a bit more. That, I admit, is little more than Monday morning quarterbacking. The case works beautifully as it is. It such a natural fit on my 6.5" wrist that I had to go back and check the dimensions as I was convinced it was no larger than 43mm.

The dial is another aspect that delivered more than I expected. Its wave-textured primary surface is set deep in the case, surrounded by a smooth raised ring with a printed index. Oversized numerals and small darts mark the hours. Sword hands extend right to the edge of their markers. The orange second hand and "3000m" text add a pop of color, and green-white C3 pops to life at night. You may choose from black, green, blue, or brown, with or without a date which, along with the crown, is just north of 4:00. It is an odd placement, but the date window fits neatly between the big 3 and the small 4:00 marker, so it does not appear off-center.

Borealis provides a 22mm black calfskin leather strap with a signed bronze buckle. I find it odd when a diver's watch arrives without a suitably waterproof strap, but they offer an Isofrane-style in vulcanized rubber for $15. I tried both and I appreciated the rubber, even though I wore the leather more often. 

The sculpted bronze buckle is certainly attractive, but unduly bulky, and its execution falls short. Hard edges and sharp corners make it feel unfinished - a quality I've noticed on other micro brands' buckles lately. I hope it isn't a trend. A new buckle is an easy fix, but it shouldn't be necessary. On the other hand, the rubber strap was perfectly comfortable, and its buckle was both nicely finished and better proportioned than its fancier bronze counterpart. I rather wish Borealis had fashioned the bronze buckle in the flatter, Isofrane style. If you find you like the big bronze buckle, you will be happy to know that it fits the dive strap too.

Screw bars secure both the strap and the bronze buckle and Bum readers know have no love for them. Sure, they are secure, but they can also be tricky to remove and replace. I hate fiddling with two screwdrivers, trying not to strip the heads, hoping I don't slip and scratch the case... It's a pain. Fortunately, Borialis makes it easy. They supply a pair of Allen wrenches and the bars have hex heads for a better fit and less chance of slip. I managed to get them off without fuss. I also liked the way the stainless heads looked against the bronze and the way they tied in the steel release valve fitting.

One evening with the Batial and I was hooked. I just loved the way it fit. In short order, this attractive, tough, yet surprisingly wearable piece had become my weekend "go-to" watch. Make no mistake; 44mm is a big watch on just about any wrist, so the Batial does not want for presence, but the case is so cleverly tailored that just about anyone can enjoy it. For $445 direct from BorealisWatch.com, I'd call it a great value.

Pro: Great specs. Compact proportions.

Con: Disappointing buckle.

Sum: A refined take on the big bronze diver. The Time Bum approves.

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